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«I don’t really like using the word anniversary, sometimes I wonder: Am I really that old? But this year marks our 35th year working in Italy. So, it has been 35 years of collaboration with Italian tailors, artisans, factories, and, of course, with all the fabric and yarn producers». This is how Michael Kors began to describe his spring-summer 2025 collection, showcased at New York fashion week.
Italy is a country he loves. And a place of excellence that he wants to pay homage to with a cinematic perspective. «I think you all know I love movies, theater, pop culture, and I hope everyone has seen the new Ripley on Netflix. There is something about this Ripley, much as we love Gwyneth Paltrow and Jude Law, the new Ripley has a dark romanticism. And there is definitely a 50s romantic spirit in the collection. Another element that comes through is that we have been collecting, for many years, photographs by Herb Ritts.
His photos had a sensuality, a cleanliness that was never typical, always very warm and very sensual». As previously anticipated, the scene was filled with romanticism veiled in mystery. With Kors femmes walking through a large hall where huge rocks emerged. Could they be the Faraglioni of Capri? After all, we are in the house of Capri holdings. «Everyone here knows I love Capri, but there is also the other side of the Mediterranean, which is a bit more rustic. I’m talking about Procida, Ischia, Stromboli, something that feels more personal. We started thinking about all the textures, many of them handcrafted. Everything from raffia to handmade flowers, to leather, to lace on the skin. Everything is not as it seems, it is rustic but glamorous, it is the dichotomy of two different things».
A 1950s vibe blended with the Fifties, embodied by some of Kors’ favorite faces. Irina Shayk, Karen Elson, Amanda Murphy, women with the allure of actresses. They modeled coats with 3D flowers, suits in a blue-brown mélange, and evening gowns with swimsuit-style necklines. And woven hats pulled down over the eyes, concealing the gaze when there is something to hide.
Verdict. «Evening gowns? Unless you’re going to a red carpet event at Cannes or the Met Gala, we stick with things that have that elegance, something relaxed and, honestly, very American. Easy but glamorous at the same time». Michael Kors’ sharp and ironic spirit has always been his signature. It is evident in this collection, in those seemingly simple pairings, ready to reveal, upon closer look, expert craftsmanship. Easy and very chic. After all, there is always a star, even under a cashmere sweater. (All rights reserved)
